I just checked my Google countdown clock, and I only have 41 days left in Korea… FORTY-ONE! Someone please tell me where the last year of my life went. Until August 11th I will be doing everything in my power to enjoy the rest of my time here. Still on the to-do list:
- Hiking Mt. Seorak (Seoraksan National Park)
- Buddhist temple stay?
- Visiting my family in Daejon
- The beach
I was able to knock one goal off my list last weekend by visiting Haeundae beach in Busan. Actually, this trip practically fell into my lap one day and it worked out beautifully. For the past 2 months or so, I’ve been reading books with So-Hee’s (my co-worker’s) 7 year old daughter Ro-un. Her English is already near-fluent from the year she spent living in Australia, but her mom wanted her to have some guidance from a native speaker too. As a token of appreciation for my voluntary tutoring, So-Hee and her husband decided to rent us a seaside condo in Busan for the weekend! Since my 5th grade co-teacher Hae-Sun grew up in Busan, she gave Alex and I a long list of things to do and see during our trip.
Busan is located on the Southeastern coast of Korea, and Seoul is completely opposite to it on the Northwestern end. It takes about 5.5 hours by bus to reach Busan, which is why we opted to take the more expensive (but much faster) KTX or ‘bullet’ train. The KTX speeds across the peninsula at 200mph (300km/hr) and arrives in less than 3 hours. Love it! I really wish we had one in the states because I hate driving hours on end.

Our beach condo ended up being on the 28th floor of the Hanhwa resort hotel, and the view of Gwang-an bridge was absolutely breathtaking:


After we dropped our bags in the room and finished admiring the view, we wasted no time getting into our bathing suits and out to the beach! Haeundae beach (the most popular one in Busan) was a 10-15 minute walk from our condo. Alex and I bought some cheap beach towels, water, and snacks and planted ourselves near the water. Haeundae was full of beachgoers from all around the world, which made for some really interesting people-watching. For a while I lounged out on my towel and watched a group of white guys dig a hole about chest-deep for no apparent reason. Then I turned my attention to some Korean guys giggling, splashing each other, and burying their friend in the sand. They were pretty entertaining. Though some westerners raise their eyebrows at some of the behavior here, there’s actually no ‘gay stigma’ in Korea because Koreans deny that anyone is gay in the first place. Because of this, it’s perfectly acceptable for guys to hold hands, wear a man-bag, or romp around on the beach playfully shoving their buddies.

A little while later, when the heat got too intense, I decided to take a refreshing dip in the tropical waters. No wait, that never happened. Actually, I only managed to get one toe in contact with the water before squealing in surprise. The water was ICE cold!!! Korea, why do you have to be so close to Russia?!?! But alas, if you go to the beach you have to swim, right? It would be silly not to.I spent the next 10 minutes coaxing my body to accept the freezing water, and still only got in about waist-deep before I’d had enough. The next 3 hours were devoted to napping on my warm towel, which left me feeling amazingly relaxed

Haeundae Beach

By the way, Koreans must think Americans look like total floozies on the beach. Probably 85-90% of Koreans swim in t-shirts and shorts (both guys and girls) for various reasons. Most want to protect their pristine and milky white complexions, but others just feel that regular bikinis are too revealing. I even saw a little girl wearing a jacket in the ocean… gimme a break! Koreans do have some amazingly beautiful skin (and I admit I have a lot to learn about sun protection), but sometimes their fear of the sun goes a little overboard.
That night, Alex and I grabbed some Italian food at a cute little ocean-side cafe. Gwang-an bridge looked spectacular at night, which served as a nice backdrop for our post-dinner stroll. The next morning, we woke up early to hit the breakfast buffet and then the beach before it was time to check out of the hotel. This time, we rented a beach umbrella and mat for only 5,000 won (~$4). Going to the beach in the morning was definitely worth it; the sun was causing the water to sparkle and reflect a brilliant blue/green color, and the tourists hadn’t flooded the area yet. Alex and I were also far more successful in legitimately swimming in the ocean water that day.


Around 10:30am, we said goodbye to Haeundae Beach and headed back to the hotel to shower and check out. Our next stop would be the Ja-kal-chi fish market, which was recommended by my co-teacher. The fish market was enclosed in a giant building that reminded me of the Austin Convention Center, but far more fishy. Inside, hundreds of vendors sat behind giant tanks full of unimaginable sea creatures waiting to be bought. Ajummas chopped up live octopi while eels and giant grabs squirmed in their tanks. The special attraction of this fish market is that you can buy a live fish one minute and be eating it the next. The first floor consists of the live fish vendors, while the second is packed with restaurants waiting to cook up your fresh purchase. Though I cringed a little bit at the thought of locking eyes with the fish I was about to eat, Alex and I really wanted this unique experience. So, we did it. We chose one flat fish (Gwang-uh in Korean) and one strange looking black-ish fish that was recommended for barbecueing. The vendor non-chalantly scooped out the fish and took the still-wiggling prize the short distance up the stairs and over to a restaurant. Fifteen minutes later, fresh sushi and a whole barbecued fish were sitting on our table. Yay! I guess. I was a little sad about the whole thing.

Fish market


A picture of our future meal... the flat brown fish became sushi, and the black one became BBQ

The fish market restaurant

Flat-fish sushi (광어). Please note Alex's mad chopstick skillz. I could have mistaken that hand for an Asian person's

scary but yummy BBQ fish
When lunch was over it was time to head back to the train station and be on our way back to Seoul. This trip left me wishing I’d had more time to spend in Busan, since there were still about 10 other things on the recommended list. The weekend still made for a really fantastic, much needed mini-vacation. Next up, Seoraksan!